Fashion designer Ganit Goldstein teamed up with Stratasys to create unique pieces by combining artisanal embroidery methods with direct 3D printing on textiles. The result was a Japanese-inspired patterned 3D printed collection called “WeAreABle” which the artist launched in October via a virtual reality fashion exhibition space on her website. By incorporating multi-materials PolyJet technology and 3D scanning to produce 3D textiles, Goldstein is at the forefront of developments in innovative textile production. The project is part of a European Union (EU) Horizon 2020 Re-FREAM grant that allowed ten designers to team up with scientists to rethink the fashion industry’s manufacturing process.
During the time spent at Tokyo University of the Arts, Goldstein was inspired by Asian artisanal embroidery and textile painting. His kimono designs follow Japanese ikat weaving, a traditional folk technique produced since the mid-18th century where unique patterns appear to have been splashed onto the fabric. Back in her London studio, the designer chose to integrate the manufacturing technique with 3D scanning technology to then 3D print it on the fabric. Maintaining the identity of the technique while giving it a unique approach that could pave the way for the future of 3D printing in textiles.
For the “WeAreABle” project, Goldstein relied on 3D body scans and 3D parametric codes combined with multi-color 3D printing directly on the fabric for a whole new way of making clothes. Based on the measurements of a 360-degree body scanner, she was able to tailor the garment to a person’s specific shape and measurements. The resulting two outfits combine form, color and flexibility in bespoke pieces with unique materials and parametric patterns.
As many designers turn to 3D printing technology for bespoke creations, Goldstein is moving away from mass-produced fast fashion and towards an on-demand manufacturing platform, which could eventually become a collection for women. customers looking for one-of-a-kind artistic yet wearable pieces. . Stratasys direct-to-textile printing technology has enabled it to fully digitize design workflows, throughout production.
This then demonstrates that it is possible for localized manufacturing and mass customization to take the lead in fashion. The new technique could eventually help reduce inventory and waste, a very relevant trend, especially as the industry moves towards more sustainable brands that create fashion without leaving a negative footprint.
Stratasys has previously worked closely with a number of home fashion brands to optimize its new PolyJet technology to meet the needs of modern clothing manufacturing and to make custom fashion design commercially viable. Partnerships with avant-garde designers threeASFOUR and Travis Fitch at New York Fashion Week led to commercial opportunities for 3D printing directly on clothing. The pioneering 3D printing manufacturer also collaborated with Goldstein in 2019 on a fashion collection of 3D printed shoes and jewelry.
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For this project, Goldstein considered the human body as a platform for innovation and focused on the development of smart textiles. Focusing particularly on the limits of technology and tradition by redrawing the boundaries between handmade and machine-made by combining the two. If Japanese embroidery is the soul of the project, direct multi-color 3D printing on textiles is the heart. The kimono follows an algorithm consisting of the 3D body scan and translates onto the printing surface during the printing process.
Using 3D printing, the designer and engineers at Stratasys were able to print the data from the scans and make a textile that “remembers” the 3D properties of a specific body, Goldstein described. The result is outfits tailored to the exact curves and unique body shape of the model.
Ultimately, every garment made from 3D to 2D CAD manipulations and 3D design workflow is a precise piece of fabric. The never-before-seen designs show a unique use of dominant colors, textures and shades that can be enjoyed from different angles, with a characteristic focal point at the back. The Kimono style focuses on floral designs that completely cover the fabric for a modern take on the age-old traditional dress of Japan.
Since its launch, the 3D printed creations have already been presented in the prestigious “Linea Pelle” exhibition in Milan by the Stratasys team, as well as several other outfits and textiles from the Stratasys Art, Fashion & Design collections, which bring the new for textiles printed using PolyJet technology. The pieces will also be presented as part of the permanent exhibition for the following months at Maison D, also in Milan.
Although the launch of the new collection was scheduled for the annual exhibition at the Berlin ‘Wear It’ Summit, due to COVID-19 restrictions and social distancing regulations, Goldstein had to reinvent the way she presented her work. Work with a tech giant Intelligence, she created a virtual reality platform for a realistic 360-degree exhibition space to showcase her precious creations. Allowing the public to view the 3D collection in a full virtual reality space and bridging the gap between our new reality of social distancing.